Tuesday, October 1, 2013

This spring I had an injured finger, so I had to take a break from climbing.  I started running a lot and doing pull ups in my basement.  I felt like I should also do something productive, climbing wise, during this time.  So I did what any good New England climber would do and started to scrub up and replace old hard wear on old climbs.
I turned my attention to the Barber wall on Cathedral Ledge. Specifically the zone from Lichen Delight to Retaliation. I knew there were climbs in that zone but were deeply covered in lichens. One line Medusa I started to scrub and as I got lower I realized I was not scrubbing the original line because the bolts were off to my right.  So I called up the first acentionists to see were it went they could not remember, it being back in 1986.  So I filed that one in the back of my head and didn't finish scrubbing the line not wanting to call any undue attention to it.  Granted this is the rappel line off the Lichen Delight ledge so it was not like I had discovered any thing people didn't know about. 
Fast forward to this fall. I rappelled in and scrubbed the holds up and started to see if there was gear.  I wanted to have the line go all trad because it was sort of squeezing one in there.  Well I though there was enough gear. Turns out after a ground fall, thank you Alexa and that tree for the save, and pulled pieces and a broken nut, I put two bolts in the rig.  
The route starts on Reconciliation and then traverses right to a  seam and some hard bouldery moves and then finishes up on the finger crack of Medusa.  I named it Perseus because he had slain Medusa in Greek mythology.
Broken  Nut

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